526
Model 1934 Pistol / Re: A treasure suddenly showed up...
« on: March 20, 2014, 11:09:38 AM »
Very nice! Thank you for sharing.
Regards,
Regards,
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527
WTP / Re: Klötzer`s WTP with holster
« on: March 20, 2014, 11:08:09 AM »
gebirg - That is a Mauser WTP I, or first model , 3 type/variation. Defined by a single grip screw and the "MAUSER WERKE..." slide address. Thank you for sharing the info on its capture.
How did you determine the holster is for a Walther model 9? I would not think a WTP I would fit in a holster designed for a model 9.
Regards,
How did you determine the holster is for a Walther model 9? I would not think a WTP I would fit in a holster designed for a model 9.
Regards,
528
Model 1914 Pistol / Re: Loaded chamber safe for carry?
« on: March 16, 2014, 07:22:58 AM »
It is a safe as it is to do with any automatic pistol. In other words less safe than without.
Regards,
Regards,
529
Model 1914 Pistol / Re: New member looking at a 1914 7.65mm
« on: March 16, 2014, 07:20:04 AM »
The milled panel appears on early variations, from the Humpbacks to the first 250,000 or so. I believe the intention was to lighten the frame but at some point, the effort was determined not to be worth the result, so it was discontinued. It did provide a convenient place to put markings and some police armors did just that.
Regards,
Regards,
530
Non Gun Items / Re: Mauser Posters
« on: March 06, 2014, 03:37:09 PM »
Please provide the diamentions and a way to contact you if these are still available.
Thank You!
fxdx21@hotmail.com
Thank You!
fxdx21@hotmail.com
531
Model 1934 Pistol / Re: Hello from new member
« on: March 06, 2014, 03:26:29 PM »
Hello Mark and welcome to the forum,
If you provide a complete serial number I may be able to tell you a little more about your example but it sounds like a 1914/34 transitional. These have a straight back grip of the earlier 1914 models but have the MAUSER WERKE slide address of the later 1934 models. They were made between 1930-1934. "Humpback" is usually used to refer to the first 2800, 7.65 mm pocket models, which are rare and fall into a prototype catagory, not the curved grip of the 1934 model. The problem with your safety may be the spring and Numrich or Wolf spring replacments should work fine. I think Numrich gets their springs from Wolf. Numrich has been in buisness for many years and I have never had any problems in my dealings with them. If we can help you when it is time to take it apart we will. It may not even be the spring that is the problem.
Regards,
Burgess Mason
If you provide a complete serial number I may be able to tell you a little more about your example but it sounds like a 1914/34 transitional. These have a straight back grip of the earlier 1914 models but have the MAUSER WERKE slide address of the later 1934 models. They were made between 1930-1934. "Humpback" is usually used to refer to the first 2800, 7.65 mm pocket models, which are rare and fall into a prototype catagory, not the curved grip of the 1934 model. The problem with your safety may be the spring and Numrich or Wolf spring replacments should work fine. I think Numrich gets their springs from Wolf. Numrich has been in buisness for many years and I have never had any problems in my dealings with them. If we can help you when it is time to take it apart we will. It may not even be the spring that is the problem.
Regards,
Burgess Mason
532
WTP / Re: WTP I & IIs
« on: March 05, 2014, 10:28:34 AM »
Thank you! It has been a labor of love.
Regards,
Regards,
533
General Discussion / Re: 1910 -1934 Mauser not Enhlish made
« on: March 05, 2014, 10:26:35 AM »
I am not positive but I believe this marking was made before or during WWII not after. All small arms were confiscated from occupied Germany post WWII but not all were marked this way. It is definatly a British marking. I do not know why the British chose to use this marking insted of just using British proof marks.
Regards,
Regards,
534
C96 / C12 Broomhandle / Re: c96 coloring enquiry
« on: January 29, 2014, 04:26:20 PM »
There are no hot/salt blued parts on a C-96 from 1912. Most parts are cold/rust blued. The parts you list as being blued are actually nitrate or fire blued and some parts are in the white polished bare metal whle other have a strawed finish.
With it having been in the condition you describe you will not harm value if you don't get it right but if you want a quality rehab try the Broom closet / the Gun Rack in Stark, FL. He does an excellent job at a fair price.
Regards,
B. Mason
a.k.a. 1914mauser
With it having been in the condition you describe you will not harm value if you don't get it right but if you want a quality rehab try the Broom closet / the Gun Rack in Stark, FL. He does an excellent job at a fair price.
Regards,
B. Mason
a.k.a. 1914mauser
535
Model 1934 Pistol / Re: 1.variation made in 1940 - Norwegian police...
« on: September 28, 2013, 08:20:57 AM »
I have not seen many Norwegian marked 1934s and with KM markings too. You truly have a peice of history written in steel. Congratulations!
Regards,
Regards,
536
Model 1914 Pistol / Re: Shooting 1914
« on: September 23, 2013, 04:25:10 PM »
Mausers are very well built and a 1914 post war commercial is a common variation. I would have no worries about shooting it. Regards,
537
General Mauser Pistol Questions / Re: Mouser 7.65 serial no. 586940 date of manufacturing
« on: September 23, 2013, 04:20:31 PM »
It was made in 1940. Sorry it took so long to get a replyand welcome to the forum. Regards,
538
Model 1914 Pistol / Re: Magazine disassembly
« on: September 21, 2013, 04:17:19 PM »
It slides to the front.
539
Model 1914 Pistol / Re: New member looking at a 1914 7.65mm
« on: September 21, 2013, 04:16:32 PM »
Yes, the one in front of the rear sight is the Imperial acceptance. The marking behinde is a double crown/U proof mark.
540
Model 1914 Pistol / Re: Magazine disassembly
« on: September 21, 2013, 05:51:33 AM »
If your magazine is the indented base it is very difficult to disassemble. The best method to clean is to put it in boiling water to remove gunk, then dry and oil. If it is a split or T-tail base, with magazing upside down lift up on T and push to the front to remove base. Then spring and follower are removed from bottom. Submersing in boiling water first will help to loosen up dirt and dried grease that may be present. Regards,